Middletown: the more things change, the more they stay the same, and nowhere is that more evident than at The Meadows.
Little has changed at the 75-year-old mainstay since its original owner, Mike Mandzak Jr., built the restaurant from the ground up in 1934, except for the new monogrammed goblets marking the milestone. In a back booth you’ll find his son and present owner, Mike Mandzak III, 61, writing up the day’s menu and pricing, just like his dad did all those years ago.
The Meadows’ rustic wood paneled interior features historic prints from the old Sorg Mansion instead of sleek flat panel TVs. It harkens back to the days of executive lunches, a time when Mandzak said Armco bigwigs would come in and conduct business deals over soup and sandwiches. A back booth in the corner had a phone specially installed for The Journal reporter to call in any transactions made there.
But in its 75th year, the executives are gone, moved with AK’s headquarters to West Chester Twp., and the lunch crowd consists of a quieter group of doctors, lawyers and city politicians. It’s the fresh, home-cooked fare — made from the recipes of his mother, Leonarda — that make the restaurant unique.
“It’s the food. We would be empty without good food and good service,” said manager Gordon Lindsay.
The restaurant still brings in fresh meat and produce for each day’s meals, mostly from local vendors and some from the gardens of The Meadows’ 18 employees. Soups, sauces and dressings are made from scratch and steaks are cut to order. Most wines are available only by the bottle. It’s the kind of food, at prices at hometown lows of $13.95 for a dinner with salad and two sides, that Mandzak’s wife, Renee, 38, said gets people coming back.
She can recall a few months ago when they received frog legs so fresh the flippered feet were still attached, “but one couple came in three nights in a row to order them, they liked them so much,” she said.
“We’re not a LoneStar. We don’t want to be,” Mandzak said. “Some people say it’s kind of like the Middletown ‘Cheers’. Everybody knows everybody. It feels like home.”
The Meadows is located at 2102 Yankee Road, Middletown. The restaurant takes reservations but walk-ins are welcome.
Contact this reporter at (513) 705-2843 or jheffner@coxohio.com.
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9:45 AM, 12/23/2009
7:53 PM, 11/12/2009
For the record I have never worked for Bob Evans or even applied. And I am not personally fond of frog legs, but that is a matter of opinion.
5:59 PM, 11/12/2009
8:26 PM, 11/10/2009
75 years..that's amazing. It's always a real pleasure to come in. The food, service, atmosphere are the finest of all.THE MEADOWS..
Number 1 for us.
4:27 PM, 11/9/2009