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Unique twists on traditional holiday meals

Local chefs offer twists on some all-time favorites.

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By Duante Beddingfield, Contributing Writer 7:44 PM Friday, November 18, 2011

Thanksgiving is less than a week away, and because it’s not uncommon these days for people to have two, three, or more stops at different homes on and around the holiday, it can sometimes get...well, boring eating the same things over and over, every year. Why not take matters into your own hands this year and change things up a little?

To get you kick-started, we’ve enlisted three local chefs with many years of experience bringing comfort and joy to Miami Valley diners, and asked them each to create two original, unique twists on classic Thanksgiving staples. What they came up with will have you re-evaluating your holiday grocery list.

Chef Matthew Hayden has made a big name for himself in the Dayton area. Owner of the Pour Haus and Scratch Catering in Centerville, he also spent eight years running The Chimneys Inn Catering and Banquet Facility in Miamisburg. But more importantly, Chef Hayden shares with us a recipe for a smoked turkey packed with bold flavor and a classy yet surprisingly simple dessert that’s just as perfect for a dinner party as for an intimate holiday date.

Another take on turkey is provided by Lee Anne House, who previously worked as sous chef at Kettering’s Fresco and now serves as commis chef at downtown Dayton’s Olive, An Urban Dive, which serves up hip, deliciously creative fare using the freshest meat and produce grown in the Miami Valley. House also serves up a fresh, fun side that’ll show you Brussels sprouts in a whole new light.

“At Olive, we like it fresh and local, so of course we’re going to suggest you purchase this year’s turkey from a local farmer,” said owner Kimberly Collett. “We call on Ed Hill Family Farm in Xenia for ours, but you can ask for his chickens and turkeys at Dorothy Lane Market.”

Chef Joe Fish has more than 25 years of experience in the culinary industry. An honors graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, he honed his craft working across Europe as a chef in Paris, Berlin, and Munich among many other cities, in four-star New York restaurants, California’s wine country, and at London’s famed Savoy Hotel, where he served on a team of chefs selected to prepare breakfast and lunch for the Royal Family including the late Princess Diana. In Dayton, after a stint as executive chef at Pacchia, he became head chef at the University of Dayton’s Virginia W. Kettering dorm and opened The Chef Case, a venue at the 2nd Street Market featuring allergy friendly foods.

“This Thanksgiving,” he said, “you can pre-order gluten-free and vegan side dishes and desserts from The Chef Case.”

To that end, Chef Fish provides us with two gluten-free examples: a side dish using warm, colorful fall flavors and a sinful dark chocolate dessert created by Chef Case pastry chef Jen Herrera.

“No matter what you make or whose bird you use,” Collett said, “we suggest putting on some old time swing and having a glass of wine ready...”

An important sentiment. During this hectic time of year, remember that taking time to enjoy the preparation of a good meal is just as important as appreciating the fortune of being able to enjoy the final product.

“The holidays are about down time with family,” Hayden said. “Comforting food, comforting family, comforting couch.. comforting naps.”

“And in the big picture,” he adds, “the holidays represent a time to re-establish traditions, to keep them alive and to raise awareness of the importance of giving.”

Smoky Southwestern Lemon Holiday Turkey

Courtesy of Matthew Hayden

Recipe and cook times based on thawed, average-sized bird (10 -14 pounds)

Southwestern Lemon Wet Rub

In a mixing bowl, combine the following ingredients:

Zest from ½ lemon (use a microplane grater; yields approximately 1 teaspoon of zest)

1 cup olive oil

2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary, pulled from stems

¼ cup ground coriander (look for seeds at an international grocery instead of the pre-ground stuff at the supermarket; grind with spice grider, coffee grinder, or mortar and pestle)

1 tbsp. brown sugar

1 tsp. ground cumin

1 tsp. dried oregano

1 tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. paprika

1 tsp. ground black pepper

1 tsp. chili powder

Directions:

1. Apply wet rub thoroughly to outside of turkey. Carefully running hand underneath skin, apply wet rub thoroughly beneath skin as well.

2. Place turkey in pan and cook uncovered in smoker at 225 degrees for 3 hours. Use your favorite wood (oak, hickory, mesquite, cherry, etc.) for added flavor. Monitor temperature to ensure steadiness; use water pan if needed to keep temperature down.

3. Ramp up the temperature to 300 degrees to finish (1 -2 more hours). Check internal temperature with digital thermometer at the thickest spot, between the thigh and breast — make sure the thermometer is not touching bone, or it’ll read high. Remove when thermometer hits 165 degrees.

Allow turkey to rest for 20 minutes, covered. Carve and serve.

“Both my recipes here represent my M.O. pretty well,” Hayden said, “taking a classic, time-honored preparation and treating it to some additional influences, be they regional or global. Making connections between flavors is the secret. For example, with the turkey, rosemary is classic. That led me to lemon, which led me to coriander, which led to Southwestern seasonings, which led to smoking. The taste works because the connections make sense: it’s a progression of flavors.”

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